As Nigeria grapples with soaring inflation and economic instability, staples like beef, tomatoes, and bread, once commonplace, have become highly priced luxury items. GODFREY GEORGE of Punch writes that families are now making profound adjustments to their eating habits and lifestyles by reverting to traditional, cheaper alternatives
For Comfort Soberekon, a 47-year-old mother of six residing in Port Harcourt, Rivers State, chicken and beef have transformed from staples to luxury items, a stark reminder of the growing economic strain on many Nigerian families.
As a petty trader trying to navigate the pressures exerted on her by inflation and managing the household with limited resources, Comfort has had to make significant changes to how she provides for her family.
In a conversation with our correspondent on Tuesday, Comfort’s words were a blend of resignation and humour.
“Ponmo is the way o,” she said with a lighthearted chuckle, referring to cow skin, which has become her family’s primary source of protein, substituting beef and chicken. This just masks a deeper truth—the escalating costs of traditional protein options have forced her to adjust her food budget in ways she never anticipated.
Comfort’s family dynamic has shifted dramatically. With her eldest son, a budding fashion designer, recently moving out to pursue his career, and her eldest daughter settling into a job she secured with a hospitality outfit in Delta State, the burden of caring for the remaining four children, without a husband to share financial responsibilities, weighs heavily on her lean income.
Tomato stew, once a staple in her Sunday morning meals, has vanished from the menu.
The soaring prices of tomatoes have rendered this once-cherished dish nearly out of reach.
Previously, she could purchase nearly 10 tomatoes for N500. Now, however, the price has skyrocketed to N1000 for just four tomatoes.
“My regular customer even tries to set aside the slightly broken ones for me, but it’s still not the same. I often end up discarding them because some might be so bad that they could potentially be harmful, no matter how much we cook them,” Comfort explained with a note of frustration.
With the high cost of tomatoes, Comfort has become inventive in her kitchen. Her new cuisine is what she refers to as a ‘special palm oil sauce’—a hearty blend of fresh peppers, onions, and garden eggs. “If I’m feeling a bit generous, I’ll add crayfish and some seasoning cubes, and it turns out really nice,” she said. This adaptation, though born out of necessity, has become a testament to her resourcefulness and resilience.
Comfort’s story is not just about adjusting to higher food prices; it is about the broader struggle faced by many Nigerian families as they grapple with economic hardship. In the face of such adversity, Comfort remains hopeful and determined. Her ability to adapt and find joy in new culinary creations speaks to the strength and ingenuity that many Nigerians now exhibit in their daily lives. Despite the hardships, she continues to find ways to nourish and resourcefully manage her household.
“My son normally sends me N15,000 monthly. My daughter only supports with N5,000 here and N2,000 there. It is not really regular. Before now, there was a way I could manage the money. Not anymore. Now, I can’t even manage anything. It is out of my hands. It can be frustrating sometimes,” she shrugged, sighing.
In the Agbara area of Ado-Odo/Ota Local Government Area, Ogun State, Mama Amala, a well-known food seller, had to rethink her business strategies as rising costs kept reshaping her customers’ preferences. Known for her savoury dishes, the woman now finds herself adjusting her menu to reflect the prevailing economic realities. With the skyrocketing prices of beef and goat meat, Mama Amala has shifted her focus to more affordable ingredients.
“Ponmo is what many people can afford now because it’s relatively cheap. Beef has become too costly for most of my customers, so using it in large quantities would mean that my family might end up eating it instead of my customers,” she explained.
Her pragmatic shift highlights a broader trend among food vendors grappling with the impact of inflation on their businesses.
This adjustment is not unique to Mama Amala. Across Ogun State, food sellers are also making significant changes in response to soaring prices. Suleiman Ibrahim, a vendor at Magboro Market, has seen a dramatic shift in the demand for his goods. Of late, tomatoes have become a rare sight in his stall. “I’ve had to cut back on buying tomatoes in bulk because the prices have become too expensive,” Ibrahim quipped.
Instead, he has turned to selling cucumbers and garden eggs, which have gained popularity as substitutes for the increasingly expensive tomatoes. Similarly, Musa Yusuf, another vendor, has found his tomato business struggling.
“Sometimes, I sell my tomatoes below cost price just to prevent them from spoiling,” he lamented. “It’s a tough situation.” The impact of these rising costs is evident in the changing landscape of local markets, where traditional staples are being replaced by more affordable alternatives.
Return to charcoal
Amidst these shifts, a different trend emerges—charcoal use. The increasing cost of gas and electricity has led many Nigerians to revert to using charcoal stoves. Charcoal, while less convenient and more labour-intensive to use, offers a more affordable cooking method and is widely available in both rural and urban areas. Charcoal sellers, like the ones operating under the Arepo bridge in Ogun State, are experiencing a surge in demand.
“The way people are buying charcoal these days, you’d think there’s something unusual going on,” one of them remarked when approached by our correspondent.
“Previously, my customers were mainly those involved in roasting and grilling, but now, households are buying from me.” The increase in charcoal sales underscores a broader shift in how people are adapting to the rising cost of cooking gas.
Our correspondent gathered that charcoal is packaged and sold for N500, N300, and even N200, depending on the quantity and needs of the buyers.
Mrs Victoria Segun, a mother of one, has embraced this change.
“When the price of cooking gas jumped from N700 per kilogram to N1200—and some places were selling for N1500—I decided to switch to a charcoal stove,” she revealed.
“I got one from my elder sister, and I now use it for most of my cooking. It’s easier and more economical. I only use gas for quick breakfasts like eggs.”
Another woman, who preferred to remain anonymous, shared her family’s decision to switch back to charcoal as well.
“We saw how things were going and decided to return to using charcoal,” she said with a soft chuckle.
“It’s cheaper, and meals cooked with it taste even better.”
Her experience and that of Victoria, also revealed how people have found charcoal to be a cost-effective alternative to gas and also appreciate the culinary benefits of traditional cooking methods.
These adjustments—ranging from changes in food staples to shifts in cooking methods—indicate the resilience and adaptability of individuals and businesses in the face of economic challenges. As prices continue to rise and inflation exerts its toll, the ability to find new solutions becomes crucial, especially for consumers.
Environmental concerns
Charcoal stoves present a practical solution for households struggling with high energy costs. They provide a reliable cooking method, especially in areas with frequent power outages or unreliable electricity supply. However, the use of charcoal also comes with its own set of challenges, including environmental and health concerns.
Charcoal stoves are associated with indoor air pollution and environmental degradation. An environmentalist and energy expert, Dr Ahmed Suleiman, warns that the use of charcoal contributes to indoor air pollution and deforestation. “While it’s a temporary fix, it’s essential to consider the long-term health and environmental impacts,” he added.
Food inflation
Nigeria’s headline inflation rate eased to 33.4 per cent in July 2024, slowing for the first time in almost two years, down from a 28-year high of 34.19 per cent in the previous month, according to the National Bureau of Statistics.
This, according to experts, is due to the removal of the fuel subsidy and a weakening local currency. In recent years, food prices have risen across Nigeria, with the situation worsening due to government policies—the removal of fuel subsidies, among other factors. The upward trend in the prices of these staples and other products has weakened the purchasing power of many citizens, making it difficult for several households in the country to afford daily meals.
At the March Monetary Policy Committee meeting, the Governor of the Central Bank of Nigeria, Olayemi Cardoso, stated that the substantial purchase of foodstuffs by the government as palliatives is contributing to the soaring food inflation in the country.
The CBN governor noted that inflationary pressure had not abated despite the interest rate hike in February.
He said, “Staff reports show that the principal drivers of inflation acceleration are hikes in food and energy prices, which are associated with structural factors.
“Further, new dimensions of inflationary pressure are emerging. First, ‘seller inflation’ arising from the oligopolistic structure of commodity markets, as seen in the prices of local commodities, is gaining significance.
In addition, substantial purchases by the government for distribution as palliatives to vulnerable citizens are adding another dimension to food price inflation, with seasonal factors during religious fasting and festive periods contributing to price cyclicality.”
When cucumber replaces tomato
Due to unmitigated inflation, tomatoes, integral to many Nigerian dishes, have become prohibitively expensive. Households known to relish tomato stew are turning to cucumber and garden egg (aubergine) as viable substitutes.
Cucumber, typically used in salads, has found a new role in Nigerian kitchens and is used in stews and soups, providing a refreshing twist to traditional dishes. Garden egg, a long-standing component of Nigerian cuisine, is increasingly being used as a substitute for tomatoes.
This ingredient, often found in dishes like “egusi” soup, offers a similar texture and flavour profile. It was learnt that the versatility of garden egg allows it to absorb spices and seasonings effectively, making it a valuable addition to many recipes.
When ponmo unseats beef
The skyrocketing cost of meat has led many Nigerians to embrace ponmo (cow skin) as a more affordable alternative. Ponmo, though less nutritionally dense than traditional meat, provides economic relief while maintaining some traditional culinary elements.
Ponmo’s affordability makes it an attractive option for families facing financial strain. In addition to its lower cost, it offers a different texture and flavour, which can enhance the diversity of food. Dishes like “pepper soup” and “stew” now commonly feature ponmo, reflecting its growing acceptance.
Despite its economic benefits, ponmo lacks the protein and nutrient density of meat. Dr Ifeoma Nwosu, a nutritionist in Enugu State, noted that while ponmo is rich in collagen, which can be beneficial for joint health, it does not offer the same range of nutrients as meat.
“It’s important for families to ensure they’re getting a balanced diet despite these substitutions,” she advised.
Preference for eggs over chicken
Despite a crate of eggs now going for as much as N5,000, many people still choose it over chicken, which costs the same rate per kilogramme.
Eggs provide essential proteins and vitamins, making them a practical choice for many households.
However, eggs are now being used in various traditional dishes previously made with chicken. From breakfast omelettes to “egg sauce” and “stew,” eggs offer a versatile and cost-effective alternative.
Their lower price compared to chicken allows families to manage their food budgets more effectively.
Balanced diet essential – Nutritionist
Nwosu, the nutritionist, emphasised the need for balanced nutrition despite economic constraints.
She said, “Substituting tomatoes with cucumber and garden egg can help manage food costs, but it’s crucial to ensure that these changes don’t compromise nutritional quality.
Ponmo is a more affordable protein source but lacks some of the nutrients found in meat. Eggs are a good substitute for chicken but should be part of a varied diet to prevent deficiencies.”
NSN president speaks
Professor Wasiu Afolabi, the President of the Nutrition Society of Nigeria, emphasised that despite economic hardships, individuals need to consume a diverse range of foods to meet their nutritional needs. He stated, “Regardless of economic conditions, individuals require a certain level of nutrients from their food. To achieve this, one must eat a variety of foods in sufficient quantities to fulfil the minimum nutritional requirements for healthy living.”
Afolabi warned that failing to do so can lead to malnutrition, particularly undernutrition, which severely impacts health. He noted that poverty was a significant underlying cause of the development, stating, “Without financial resources or access to sufficient food, it becomes impossible to consume the necessary nutrients required for health.”
‘No substitutes for fruits and vegetables’
Afolabi stressed that there is no substitute for fruits and vegetables, adding, “You must get them from their natural environment and consume them. However, exotic fruits like apples, pears, grapes, and certain oranges are now expensive. Even those of us who work used to buy these fruits regularly, but can we still afford to buy them as much as we used to?”
Credit: Punch
